After cardigan Merino (thank you to the Australian sheep), white cotton shirt Albini (thank you to the Egyptian cotton), it is my turn to present the pants in wool BonneGueule.
There was a lot of commotion on the forums around the famous “wool piece,” some had even guessed in advance… I also met some people in bars who thought they could squeeze me info! So much speculation, but you know better than me, Benedict is its cult of secrecy… We have never released any information ().
Fini wait! Here concretely and in detail in THE BonneGueule wool pants.
Why Wool Pants?
It is an essential base of the male wardrobe, yet we struggle to find our happiness in what brands offer today.
As for the large mesh or pants are too expensive (one can easily climb above 220 euros), the materials are cheaps (low wool flannels range that no longer resemble anything after two seasons and moult washes and which generally are not very moving) or synthetic mix that sticks to the legs… or three (and here is the cake!).
So when we did the first meeting to determine the collection plan, unanimously, we have agreed to develop our wool pants, with the main objective to tear the price / quality ratio.
In respect of the triptych BonneGueule
And of course, we wanted to offer more than just basic boring.
For those who know the (still) not in our triptych BonneGueule when we develop a piece is: a beautiful material, beautiful finishes and a good cut.
That’s how it was born pants. Quite simply. Or almost…
Vitale Barberis Canonico wool flannel (VBC)
For the matter, as usual, Benedict flooded me visual / pictures from his favorite movies and clips.
The orders were clear: Benedict wanted a light gray flannel in a weight above what is normally found on the market.
We did a lot of meetings with representatives of material manufacturers, and Benedict found his favorite in the prestigious Italian house Vitale Barberis Canonico (this man has taste and loves the beautiful, you know)
A spinning three times centenary
Vitale Barberis Canonico is simply the oldest spinning fabrics in the world still in operation(see the excellent article by Parisian Gentleman on the subject).
Founded in 1663 and headquartered in Biella, it is a business that has remained family, and above all, that is vertically integrated to 100%! In other words, VBC has its own sheep in Australia, spinning his own, and his own looms.
This allows him to have a control and total control over the quality of products (including respect for the animal). VBC gets its wool flock in its warehouses, handles the spinning and dyeing in the warehouse next door, and weaves in the still warehouse next door (yes, they have made it simple for the scheme ‘factory).
Today it is a company that combines ancestral knowledge and new technologies. VBC produces about 8 million meters of fabric per year and collections go up to 4000 references!
A design team is working full time on the collection development but VBC can also count on an archivist. The latter will hunt around the four corners of the world to buy great books of tissue archives (some of these books back to the 1800s). This archival collection has a value of several million euros!
Their factory in Biella (near Turin) is impressive: the warehouse mills and dyes are fully automated and require very little human intervention. Their weaving machines are much quieter than normal thanks to a method of isolating machines that VBC is specially developed to improve employee comfort (well, wearing earplugs is still highly recommended).
Anecdotally, VBC wanted to put this free soundproofing technology available to its competitors, but these have been discouraged by the magnitude of the task.
But why a light gray flannel?
As I said, Benedict wanted a nice light gray. The material in VBC corresponded exactly to expectations. It has a deep color, with great relief. Regarding the weight, we chose a much heavier weight than what you usually find on the market (340 grams / m² when many brands use weights below 300 grams).
This gives the material an incomparable fall when you wear the pants.
Finally, what makes the quality of wool flannel, which is called his “nervousness”. Take good pants in your hand, crumple it, and you will see that the material will react and will return to it even in its original position. We are talking about the “hand of the fabric.”
And inevitably, the quality of VBC, you will not be disappointed by this little test.
The sartoriales finishes (that of high-end, no amalgam)
Regarding finishes, we wanted to go further than what is usually found.
You will have the half moon stitching the ends of the pockets back pass poilées.
This is a purely sartoriale finish. Specifically, it does not add much (the immediate customer benefit is low). But it is a little evidence that the piece was designed with the utmost care.This speaks to lovers of beautiful products, those who love “the beautiful”.
Other sartoriale finishes: the belt with English , which is more open English. Simply put, this is the English yoke mounted on the belt. This is a basic finish for a pants suit. By cons, you will rarely find belts with an open English.
The benefit is clear: after a good raclette with friends (coming soon), you will not need to blow the first button. The Open English allows your stomach to flourish in peace. In addition, it provides more flexibility to the waistband. Quiet.
Breakpoints well marked at the ends of the pockets enhance the room where the tension is greatest.
For buttons, was favored horn (one is allergic to synthetic materials, excluding technical subjects and Japanese acetates with thousand reflections).
For the zip, we chose the Japanese manufacturer YKK . It is a guarantee of reliability and robustness. You can “zip” and “unzip” to infinity (and beyond).
Last finish oh so important: the cleanliness of background (also called panty bottom) that will allow privacy to settle quietly when you put on your pants. Peace .
Some very functional details
We absolutely wanted it to be functional pants.
First significant point pockets bags are attached. This prevents you from having the bottom of the pockets coming out to say “hello” when you place or remove your hand from your pocket.
Second appreciable finish: a closure with one grip and an interior button. Now, no more heads taken when opening and closing your pants to the bathroom.
Pants That Fits All Styles
Finally, we wanted a portable trousers both in formal attire (to go to work), and a more casual. The light gray color is really an opportunity to build new and figure out your closet all your basics!
Demonstration with Benedict and Florian who wear clothes 3 of the second line BonneGueule:
You can wear pants with leather shoes, desert boots but also with sneakers. That’s the magic of a good basic.
Whatever his style, each is able to be able to appropriate the room, and give soul to the garment ( note Benedict: lyrical, attention to excess literary trust, Alexander ).
So I can put my Air Force 1 easily.
A few Words About The Interview
Do not be a superhero and go to Google Map to locate the nearest dry cleaner you: therefore prefer the dry cleaning .
Or soapy water in your sink. But again, pure wool is a material that does not smell and dirty bit: it requires 4 or 5 times less maintenance than cotton chino.
How to Choose Your Size ?
The size pants so very classic: just take your usual size , and you will have no surprises there then!
Oh, and then there is of course the matter of rab in the pants to a tailor can enlarge a size!
And there’s enough leg length so that everyone can adapt perfectly to its size with a simple hem.
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